The simple beauty of biscuits

Frequently the early-morning conversation here is pretty minimal. Two of us are in at 7:30 (or so), and there's a few minutes to chat about the really important things in life: food.

Today, the talk turned to biscuits, the finest bread product ever created. Differing opinions are welcome, of course, but you're wrong.

Debbie and I were discussing the simplicity of the homemade biscuit. Mine is a recipe that hasn't changed much over the years, but I have discovered that (here come the letters) I get more consistent results when I use skim milk than when I use .... buttermilk.

(GASP is heard in the background from any Southern baker.)

Don't get me wrong. I love, love, love a fine buttermilk biscuit. There's nothing lighter, nothing that has that bite of flavor.

But, buttermilk can be picky. It has character -- which makes it a great cooking ingredient but that can, indeed, play havoc with your baking. It changes as it sits in the 'fridge. Skim milk, albeit flavored white water, basically, yields a soft, light biscuit, and I find it's not as prone to pouting as buttermilk, that frothy diva.

I also think people go wrong when they overcook their biscuits. They look for a nice, deep golden brown on top; the only way that comes (without getting a hockey puck) is to brush your biscuits with butter or a little oil before you bake them. Baked without any lubrication, they'll be a pale, creamy shade somewhere between ecru and tan, or, as my husband would say, light beige and dark beige.

I don't brush mine. I cook them about 11 minutes -- maybe 12 -- then pop them on a towel that's in a wicker basket. I fold the towel over and let them steam a bit to finish off.

Good stuff, and so easy to make.

Basic Biscuits
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 teaspooons baking POWDER
1/3 cup shortening
3/4 cup skim milk

Preheat the oven to 475. Sift your flower, baking powder and salt in a bowl. I use a pastry cutter to cut in my shortening pretty darned thoroughly. I pour in the milk, stir it just a time or two to combine. It's a pretty wet dough, mind you.

I lay a sheet of aluminum foil or waxed paper (for easy cleanup) on my counter and dust with a pretty good coating of flour. I dump out the dough, dust the top with a little more flour so it won't stick to my hands, then I gently pat it out. No rolling pin, no kneading. Just a pat flat to about 3/4- an inch thick. I cut with a biscuit cutter, then put them on one of those air-bake cookie sheets with the sides barely touching.

11 minutes at 475.